Saturday, August 06, 2005

Spot 10: Sanremo

Together with the rest of the Italian Riviera we had the chance to visit, Sanremo was the biggest disappointment of our journey so far. Not knowing exactly why, when planning this trip Sanremo appeared always side by side with Saint-Tropez, Cannes, Nice or Monte Carlo. Pure illusion. Its centre, cut by wide avenues filled with beautiful and reasonably preserved beginning of the 20th century buildings and palm trees, still holds the main traces of what once was one of the top European summer destinations. But at the same time underlines what seems to be the city’s main characteristic: its stoppage in time. This is even more notorious when we acknowledge the (high) average age of its tourists. The scarce nightlife and the crowded rocky beaches just added to the great feeling of disillusion. Another downsize: the use of shampoo was not allowed in showers at the beach...Where am I supposed to get a bath then!?

Spot 9: Drive from Saint-Tropez till Sanremo

This is the hardest part of our journey to describe so far, especially without falling on a common place. In the past couple of times I had of course felt the its strong impact, but I could never help leaving with the feeling the Côte D’Azur was overrated. Till today.

Not defeated by the heavy traffic from Saint-Tropez till Saint Maxime, we kept faithful to our purpose of driving till Sanremo always following the cost line. I can only say it was the most amazing drive I have ever made. Having first the sunset and later on the night fall as our background, we were given the chance to delight ourselves with the magnificent symbiosis between the sea and the amazing cost line, the imponent presence of Cannes, Nice and Monte Carlo, the inimitability of its many small villages bathed by the Mediterranean, with the unique glamour of the French Riviera adding the final touch of almost perfectionism. With the top off, a Cohiba Robusto in my hand and Diana Krall and Jack Johnson playing in the radio, we could hardly imagine a most perfect scenario to go through one of the most famous drives in the world, that indeed leaves up to its high, high expectations.
With the border crossing comes a shock that can only underline the magnificence of the French Riviera. Unfortunately, no signs would be needed to inform us that we had just entered a new country, as the differences on the Italian side are simply notorious. The one can clearly understand why glamour is a French word.

Spot 8: Biarritz

Originally schedule for spending a night over, we only reached Saint-Tropez half a day then planed. This adding to the huge traffic to get in and go out of the city only enabled us to a short visit of 3 hours.
Leaving my 2cv outside the city centre, I’ve first headed to the small streets of the old town, perfectly preserved and filled with life. Thousands of people moved along its commercial area, where stores of all top brads can of course be found. I then went up to the old city walls, where the view on the city, the sea and the long cost line of the bay is simply breathtaking. With the thermometers above the 35º, the next stop could only have been the beach (the only disappointment of this visit, as I’m not at all a fan of rocky beaches), for a refreshing and relaxing bath at the sea. The tour ended with a walk along the port, where the nice restaurants, expensive hotels and luxurious yacht bring the city’s glamour to its peak.
The only real downsize, besides the expected high prices and the mentioned rocky beaches, is the heavy traffic. Unless you can find (and afford) an accommodation in the city centre, you might not manage to have that much of relaxing holidays here.

Day 4: Saint-Tropez - Cannes - Nice - Monaco - Sanremo

The 2cv at home!!!
As soon as we were up we headed to Saint-Tropez, via Toulon. After a nice stop in this pearl of the French Riviera, we followed the cost all way till Sanremo, cruising, among many other places, Cannes, Nice and Monte Carlo. One amazing drive, with my fellow companion feeling at its best all day long. He even had the energy to, at night fall, when cruising Cannes main avenue along the sea, shout a lvery, very loud rater (I don’t know the English word, but it’s the sound usually made on purpose by motorbikers that resembles an explosion) calling the attention of the huge crowd that calmly walked by. Not satisfied, he did not resist to make a little stop in Monaco, to make the mithic GP lap. We were flying coming out of that tunel!!!

KILOMETRES (Total): 2137km 
KM SINCE LAST POST: 289km
GAS SPENT(€-Total):131.42l

Click here to know all the details of my Legendary Companion

Spot 7: Carcassone

Despite the long journey we had ahead of us today, once again we could not resist the call of a city very well recommended before our departure. How right was the tip we were given. Carcassone is an old perfectly preserved medieval town that represents all what we have been thought in History classes back in highscholl regarding the Middle Age. On the way up to the momentous castle (of course, situated on the top of the hill), we are first introduced to those which once were the houses of the poorest habitants, located outside the city walls. Once inside, we abandon the feeling of being just visiting an old monument, as the intense life provided by the plenty restaurants, shops and hotels somehow bring us back in time, when exploring the tiny crowded streets of this medieval fortified town. The grey and rainy weather of that late afternoon was the final touch to create the perfect dark and mysterious scenario.
Very well located near by the A64 highway (crossing the south of France), Carcassone is a spot not to be missed whenever you are on that region of France.

Day 3: Biarrity - Carcassone - Toulon

We had ahead one of the hardest days of all our journey, not only for the kms we had planed to drive, but because we had only one stop schedule in the middle of a whole day of highway.
The day started with a little scare regarding gas. We knew few litres were left in the trunk from the day before, but being in the centre of Biarritz, we just assume it wouldn’t be much of a problem to find a gas station the way out of the city. We were wrong. The first one we came across was only close to Bayone. I could swear I could already hear one of the horses peeing so the other one could keep on having something to drink. Thank God we were saved by the low gas consumption of the prior day.

Around half past noon we were finally heading towards Carcassone, where we made the only sightseeing stop of the day.
With the tiredness accumulating and the heavy rain that followed us the whole day getting worse and worse through the night, we decided to shorten our day and sleep at a Gas Station about 20kms to Toulon.

Regarding the 2cv, despite the long drive, he managed to keep a steady pace along the whole way, enjoying much more that I did the rain and cold weather.
KILOMETRES (Total): 1848km 
KM SINCE LAST POST: 750
GAS SPENT(Total):115.16

Click here to know all the details of my Legendary Companion

Spot 6: Biarritz


Not having in consideration the (few) hours of sleep, Biarritz ended up being one of the shortest stops so far. As mentioned, the arrival was already past 4 am, so at that time the energy still left was only enough to drive through the city and find a (great) place to park the 2cv and sleep. To that we added a half an hour tour in the morning, just before heading to our next destination.
The city is beautiful, leaving up to its fame as a medium/high class summer destination. As well according to what I had been told, the city seems to be the surfers hot spot in the region. Many surfing vans could be spot all over the city and even though the sea conditions in this particular day were not nothing of outstanding for surfing, dozens of surfers were in the water since early in the morning.

Spot 5: San Sebastian


We have arrived in San Sebastian already at half past midnight. Having our hardest day of driving schedule for the next day, it was imperative to spend the night already in Biarritz, leaving us little time to explore this city. So, when you have little time in a place, there is only one way of making it special: to do something special. So, I parked my buddy, took out my rollerblades and went for a in-lining night tour of San Sebastian. What a great choice! With my camera on one had and a beer in the other, I’ve easily explored the whole city centre in little less that 3 hours, repeating several spots more than once.
San Sebastian was with no doubts the most beautiful city visited so far and I can already say that it will remain in my top till the end of this long journey. The cost line is immense, starting close to the historical city centre and extending through a wide a long avenue, along which the number of impressive villas is remarkable. The old town are the theatre of one of the strongest “Movidas” I’ve ever experienced in Spain. It’s narrow and long streets, always leading to one of the many notable monuments, are full with thousands of people moving through the many bars that can be found there The main cathedral, across the main avenue coming from the old town is another spot that can not be missed. Summing up, in case you want to explore the Bask Country, San Sebastian should be elected as your hub.

Spot 4: Route from Ea to San Sebastian


The big surprise of the day. From Ea till San Sebastian, the national route follows almost always the see side, making this drive absolutely amazing. While enjoying the beautiful cost line and going through various little villages located by the sea, filled with life during summer time, one can easily conclude this is an area worth to explore with proper time. Two advices based on my own mistakes: plan this drive properly in order to make it all in day light and if you do it in only one way, start in San Sebastian. All the sightseeing stops along the way are located in close curves and by the sea, making it rather impossible for those driving in the opposite direction to make a stop for a picture in minimum safety.

Spot 3: Guernika


Having the time on our side, we have decided to follow the national road from Bilbao till San Sebastian, instead the highway, as originally planned. When approaching the city of Ea, the first one by the coast on this route, we came across a sign indicating the way to Guernika. Even not having any indication regarding the distance to it, we could not resist to visit the town which was completely destroyed during the Spanish Civil War by the German Air Force, moment later on immortalised by Picasso on one of its most famous paintings named after the city. Unfortunately, the one hour drive made each way did not proved to be worth it. The city is nice and cosy, but nothing really special and it’s located in the middle of nowhere. On the way back, my disappointment became somehow clear: the motivation to visit the city was the fact that it was once completely destroyed (only two buildings survived the bombing) and afterwards rebuilt from scratch. What could weI actually be looking for?